The Watchmaker of Punta Arenas (Chile)

The Watchmaker of Punta Arenas (Chile)

10 ago
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Road Dialogues
|
Chile

10 ago

Road Dialogues

Chile

Chile Apr 4, 2020

The Watchmaker of Punta Arenas

by Christoph von Ruexleben

Punta Arenas, Chile

6,996 miles from San Francisco

“The wishes of the customer don't matter to me at all." - Pierre Hermé, globally recognized as “The Picasso of Pastries”

Precision. Science. Art. Calibration. Dedication. Craft. Mastery. A mere layman, having just passed through the shop door into what may as well have been another world, I made the inexcusable error of ignoring that those words lie at the heart of pastry making. It is a matter of scientific exactness. A matter of great consequence, where even the slightest error of hand or judgment can doom a dish to any undesirable circle of flakey, buttery hell.

So who was I? And how dare I ask?

We stood in an empanada shop in the center of Punta Arenas. It was no bigger than a broom closet and it was completely empty save for us, our growling stomachs and a tall man with a wizened, mustache-adorned face who didn’t acknowledge us as we entered.

The menu was limited to a dish we’d had our fill of between Chile and Argentina,



the delicious meat-filled chamber of masa called an empanada. However, after roughly 10 such pastries over the previous 3 days, I longed for a change from the ubiquitous carne or pollo options. Shining like a beacon, my eyes were drawn to the option of camarón y queso. My lactose intolerance knew better than to tempt fate and order the dish as is, and my quest for improvisation powered my lips as I leaned on the counter and made the off-menu special request, “Puede hacer una empanada de camarón sin queso?“ Sin queso, without cheese – I may as well have cursed his family name. The reply was short and swift: a scoff and turn back towards his bowl of masa and baking tray of empanadas.

I bristled at the thought of further patronage, but the howl of arctic wind blasts at the door reminded me that the advantage was his. I gave in and tension gave way to conversation.

His name is Mario, and he is one of the oldest

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